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Jim's Climbs - 1994

Last Updated: Mon Jun 30 13:28:00 BST 2008



All | 1991 | 1992 | 1993 | 1994 | 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | Total

1994
21st January 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Idleburger Buttress 80ft VD lead, second: WW

5th March 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Gronk [pitches 1-3] 230ft VS (4c,4b,4b,-) lead, second: WW
Beaten by the clock, we finished up Morpheus at dusk.

12th March 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Nightmare 160ft S (4a,-) second, lead: MB
Floating Voter 80ft VS (4b) lead, unseconded
It started to rain heavily, just after I'd made the committing crux moves. I continued to the bolts and abseiled.

19th March 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Entrail 270ft VS (5a,4c,4b) lead, second: WW
The initial borehole was avoided to the left, with a tricky move to regain the line. Little protection to begin with.

20th March 1994 Upper Tier, The Roaches, Peak District
Right Route 90ft HD (-) lead, seconds: DR, DG
A bitterly cold day.

26th March 1994 Great Rock, Cheddar Gorge, Cheddar
[Photo]Mourning Glory 410ft VS (-,4a,-,4b,4b,-) alt lead: FW
A climb with an expeditionary feel. Loose and vegetated in the lower half, excellent climbing on the top half.

10th April 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Sleepwalk 210ft S (4a,-,-,4a) lead, second: SL
Jumping Beans 70ft S lead, second: SL
A good route, but hard for the grade.

11th April 1994 The Amphitheatre, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Rockers' Revenge 140ft VS (4b,4c) alt lead: MB

13th April 1994 The Amphitheatre, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Sweat Shop [var] 120ft HS? (4a,4b?) second, lead: MB
Unable to find the crucial peg on the top pitch we finished up the arête to the left.

15th April 1994 Three Cliffs, Gower
Right Corner 18m M solo

16th April 1994 Lewes Castle East, Gower
Gethsemane 31m S (4a) lead, second: BOC

16th April 1994 King Wall, Gower
Ragnarok 29m S (4a) lead, second: BOC
Needle Crack 21m VS (4b) lead, second: BOC

17th April 1994 Little Star Wall, Gower
Scout Crack 12m S (-) lead, second: SL2

24th April 1994 Wintour's Leap, Wye Valley
Central Rib Route III 230ft VD (-,-,-) lead, seconds: NC, DR

27th April 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Daydream 80ft VS (5a) lead, second: MB
Zebedee 80ft HVS (5a) top rope

29th April 1994 Suspension Bridge Buttress, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Suspension Bridge Arête [var] 110ft HVS (5a) second, lead: FW, second: WW
A direct line, keeping to the left of Suspense for the entire climb.
Suspense 110ft HVS (5a) second, lead: FW, second: WW

1st May 1994 Craig Cau, Cader Idris, Mid Wales
Pencoed Pillar 740ft HVD [6] lead, seconds: DR, WW

2nd May 1994 Tap-y-Graig, Arans, Mid Wales
Will-o'-the-Wisp 310ft HVD [6] alt lead: WW, second: DR

3rd May 1994 The Amphitheatre, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Hodge's Pin 60ft VS (4c) lead, seconds: LS, MB
Excellent climbing in poor surroundings.
I'm An Egon 50ft VS (4b?) second, lead: MB
Easy for the grade, but with little protection.

4th May 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Nightmare 160ft S (4a,-) alt lead: MB, second: LS

7th May 1994 Bosigran, West Penwith, Cornwall
Doorpost 185ft HS (4a,4b,4a) alt lead: FW, second: WW
Little Brown Jug 210ft VS (4b,4a,5a) alt lead: FW, second: WW
Ochre Slab Route II 120ft S (4a,4a) alt lead: FW

8th May 1994 Sennen, West Penwith, Cornwall
Church Window 75ft VD (-,4a) lead, second: SL2
Banana Flake 85ft VD (-) lead, second: SL2
Demo Route 80ft HS (4b,4b) alt lead: FW
Letterbox [Direct Finish] 90ft S[+] (4b) [2] alt lead: FW
Civvy Route 85ft HS (4b) second, lead: FW

9th May 1994 Chair Ladder, West Penwith, Cornwall
Terrier's Tooth 130ft VD (-,-,-) alt lead: WW
Flannel Avenue [var] 205ft S (4a,-,4a) lead, second: WW
South Face Direct 170ft VS (4a,4c,4c,4a) alt lead: FW
A truly stunning climb with an absorbing crux pitch.

10th May 1994 The Amphitheatre, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Giant's Cave Buttress [var] 270ft VS (4c,5a,4c) alt lead: FW

12th May 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Gronk 330ft VS (4c,4b,4c,4a) var lead: MS
I led all but the first pitch. By running the two 4b pitches together we completed the route in two hours.

14th May 1994 Goblin Combe, Avon
Bifur 60ft VS (4b) lead, second: MB
Route March 80ft VS (4c) second, lead: MB
Glamdring 80ft VS (4c) lead, second: MB
Bilbo's Revenge 60ft HVS (5a) second, lead: MB
Treebeard 70ft VS (4c) lead, second: MB
The light drizzle turned to a downpour as I was ~20ft from the top.

15th May 1994 Wintour's Leap, Wye Valley
Early Morning Traverse 1500ft VS (4b) [15] alt lead: FW, MB
A memorable route, but not for the climbing on it. Imagine climbing through a bush for seven hours.

23rd May 1994 Black Rocks, Roinn A'Mhill, Reiff, Scotland
Meikle Neuk 10m S lead, second: DG
Hanging Groove 10m S lead, second: DG
Slanting Corner 10m HS lead, second: DG
Hanging Groove [var] 10m S solo
Vee Slab 10m M solo
Tystie Left Edge 25m S lead, second: MB
Auld Nick [+ finish] 25m MS lead, second: DG
Tystie Slab 30m VD lead, second: DG
[Photo]The Grooves 20m S lead, second: DG

25th May 1994 The Old Man of Stoer, Scotland
[Photo]Original Route [var] 55m VS (4a?,4b,4c) alt lead: MB
My first sea stack and my first Tyrolean traverse.

30th May 1994 Shorncliff, Wye Valley
We climbed from 2pm to 10pm!
... One For All 100ft HS (4a) lead, second: FW
State Of Independence 60ft VS (4c) second, lead: FW
The Phoney War 90ft HS (4b) lead, second: FW
All For One ... 95ft HVS (5a) second, lead: FW
One Less White Nigger 100ft HVS (4c) lead, second: FW
Emotional Dyslexia 90ft HVS (5a) second, lead: FW
Last Call 70ft VS (5a) lead, second: FW
Motion Pictures 70ft E1 (5b) second, lead: FW
War Of The Worlds 90ft VS (4c) lead, second: FW
The Laughing Cavaliers 100ft HVS (5b) second, lead: FW

5th June 1994 Avon Gorge, Bristol
Unknown Area: Unknown Wall 180ft VS (-,4a,4c,4c) alt lead: FW
Sea Walls: Gronk 330ft VS (4c,4b,4c,4a) var lead: FW

7th June 1994 Suspension Bridge Buttress, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Limbo 190ft HVS (5b,4b) alt lead: FW

8th June 1994 The Amphitheatre, Avon Gorge, Bristol
I'm An Egon 50ft VS (4b) solo
Rockers' Revenge 140ft VS (4b,4c) second, lead: WW, FW
Vegetable Without A Cause 190ft S (-) lead, second: FW, WW

10th June 1994 Upper Amphitheatre, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Pocketed Wall 60ft VS (4c) second, lead: MB, second: FW
In Through The Out Door 70ft VS (4b) lead, second: FW, MB
Cave Left 70ft VS (4b) second, lead: FW, second: MB

11th June 1994 Subluminal Cliff, Swanage, Dorset
Baboon 50ft VS (4c) second, lead: FW
First Corner 50ft S (4a) lead, second: FW
Spreadeagle 50ft VS (5a) second: lead: FW
Double Chockstone 50ft HVD (-) lead, second: FW
Transcript Direct 50ft VS (4c/5a) second: lead: FW
Avernus 70ft S (4a) lead, second: FW
Grandpa's Grope 50ft VS (4c) second, lead: FW
Second Corner 50ft S (4a) lead, second: FW

12th June 1994 Wintour's Leap, Wye Valley
Left Hand Route [var] 290ft HS (5a,4a,-,-) lead, second: NC, DR
Due to route finding error I lead up an HVS (Gryke) passing the crux before I realised my error. I traversed back onto the route and continued to the stance. Nick couldn't follow the 4b crux of the proper line, so I abseiled down, top roped the first part of the pitch and set up a stance just above the crux to talk the others through it.

15th June 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Mobius 230ft HVS (5b,4c,4c) alt lead: MB
After several attempts at the highly polished boulder start I managed it. Frog threw the rope up and I pulled up the gear to continue the first pitch. Protection is well spaced for the first two pitches.

16th June 1994 Suspension Bridge Buttress, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Hieronymous 210ft HVS (5a,5a) alt lead: FW
Everything was going fine, until the last two feet. After several attempts and a rest on the nearby rib, it went.

18th June 1994 Wintour's Leap, Wye Valley
Left Hand Route/Bacchanalian 290ft HS (4b,4a,4a,4b) var lead: FW

19th June 1994 Wintour's Leap, Wye Valley
Nibelheim [var] 330ft VS (4b,4a,4c,4b,4b) var lead: MB
I lead the semi-circular chimney as the exit pitch.
The Angel's Girdle 360ft VS (4b,4b,5a,4c) alt lead: MB
Right Hand Route [top pitch] 100ft S (4a) second, lead: MB

22nd June 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Puke 270ft HVS (5a,5a,4c,4a) var lead: FW

24th June 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Pronk [pitch 1] 90ft VS (4c) lead, var second: MB
The rain caught up with Frog and he was lowered off. I abseiled to retrieve the gear.

26th June 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Sleepwalk [top pitch] 30ft S (4a) second, lead: SL, second: RL
Grobius 280ft VS (4c,4b,4c) lead, second: SL, RL
A combination route comprising the first three pitches of Gronk (done as two) and the top pitch of Mobius.

27th June 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Pronk [pitches 2 & 3] 330ft VS (-,4b,4c) alt lead: FW
We started up Syph to re-join the route, completed two new pitches and then escaped up Sleepwalk. I dropped several nuts on pitch 3 and retrieved all but one on abseil, only to find on return to the cliff-top that my abseil anchor had been removed by person or persons unknown.
Sleepwalk [pitches 3 & 4] 90ft S (-,4a) second, lead: FW

29th June 1994 Portishead Quarry, Avon
Pickpocket 150ft HVS (5a) lead, second: SL
The Brink Of Solarity 150ft HVS (4c) lead, second: SL

30th June 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Sleepwalk [pitches 1 & 2] 120ft S (4a) lead, second: MB
Pronk [pitches 4 & 5] 135ft HS (4b,4a) second, lead: MB

1st July 1994 Boiler Slab, Gower
Dulfer 19m S (4a) lead, second: FW
Ayesha 21m VS (4c) second, lead: FW
Direct 21m VS (4b) lead, second: FW
Nemo 18m VS (4b) second, lead: FW

2nd July 1994 Paviland Main Cliff, Gower
The Ring 42m HS (4b) second, lead: FW
Shelob 36m HS (-,4b) lead, second: FW
East Gully Groove 36m VS (4c) second, lead: FW
Balrog 42m HS (4b) lead, second: FW

8th July 1994 Stanage Edge, Peak District
Christmas Crack 15m HS (4b) lead, second: MB
Right-Hand Trinity 13m HS (4b) second, lead: MB
Central Trinity 15m VS (4c) lead, second: MB
Via Media 11m VS (4c) second, lead: MB

9th July 1994 Stanage Edge, Peak District
Tango Buttress 12m HS (5a) lead, second: MB
Norse Corner Climb 14m HS (4c) second, lead: MB
Inaccessible Crack 18m VS (4c) lead, second: MB
High Neb Buttress 12m VS (4c) lead, second: SL2, WW
Twisting Crack 14m S (-) lead, second: BOC, MB
Gunter 12m VS (4c) second, lead: MB
Straight Crack 14m S (4a) lead, second: MB
Typhoon 12m HS (4b) lead, second: WW
Ono 8m S (-) lead, second: BOC, WW
Duo Crack Climb 9m D solo

10th July 1994 Froggatt Edge, Peak District
Swimmers' Chimney 11m HVD (-) lead, second: CS
Terrace Crack 12m VS (4b) lead, second: WW
Holly Groove 9m VS (4c) lead, second: SL2
Tody's Wall 18m HVS (5a) lead, second: HB
Green Gut 14m S (4a) lead, second: MB
Straight and Narrow 14m E2 (5c) top rope

12th July 1994 Goblin Combe, Avon
Gondolin 70ft VS (4b) second, lead: SL, second: RL
Treebeard 70ft VS (4c) lead, second: RL, SL
Legolas 40ft VS (4c) lead, second: RL

13th July 1994 Suspension Bridge Buttress, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Hell Gates 250ft HVS (5a,5a,4b) alt lead: FW

18th July 1994 Wyndcliffe, Wye Valley
Questor 110ft VS (4b) lead, second: SL2, WW
Cadillac 100ft VS (4c) second, lead: WW

20th July 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Morpheus 240ft VD (4a,-,-) lead, second: BOC

21st July 1994 Wintour's Leap, Wye Valley
Central Rib Route I 230ft S (-,4a,4a) lead, second: BOC

23rd July 1994 Carreg Wasted, Llanberis Pass, Snowdonia, Wales
Crackstone Rib 175ft S (-,-,-) lead, second: BOC, SL2
The Wrinkle 235ft VD (-,-,-) second, lead: SL2, second: BOC
Lion 280ft VS (4a,4c,-,4a) lead, second: SL2

24th July 1994 Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass, Snowdonia, Wales
Flying Buttress 300ft HD [5] alt lead: SL2, second: BOC

29th July 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Nightmare [var] 160ft MVS (4a,4b) lead, second: RL
Floating Voter 80ft VS (4b) lead, second: RL

31st July 1994 Three Cliffs, Gower
Joggled Wall 18m VD (-) lead, second: DR
Joggled Wall Direct 18m HS (4b) lead, second: DR
Scavenger 26m VS (4b) lead, second: DR

1st August 1994 Great Tor, Gower
East Ridge 73m VD (-,-,-) lead, second: DR

1st August 1994 Devil's Truck, Gower
The Nose 15m HS (4a) lead, second: DR
Gull Corner 15m VS (4b) lead, unseconded
Legge 9m S (4a) solo

6th August 1994 Chudleigh Rocks, Devon
Wogs 120ft HVD (-) lead, second: WW
Never On Sunday 120ft HS (4a,4b) lead, second: WW
Sarcophagus 110ft VS (4b) lead, second: WW

7th August 1994 The Dewerstone, Devon
Central Groove 160ft HS (4b,4b) lead, second: WW
Climbers' Club Ordinary 170ft VS (4b,4a,-) var lead: WW, second: BOC

13th August 1994 Main Area, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Piton Route 200ft VS (4c,4a,4b) var lead: FW

14th August 1994 Promontory Slab, Baggy Point, Devon
Shangri-La 130ft HS (4a) second, lead: SL, second: RL
Urizen 130ft VS (4c) lead, second: RL, SL

14th August 1994 Long Rock Slab, Baggy Point, Devon
Marion 120ft HS (4b) second, lead: FW
Freddie 100ft HS (4b) lead, second: FW

15th August 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Idleburger Buttress 80ft VD (-) lead, second: AH
Floating Voter 80ft VS (4b) lead, second: AH

17th August 1994 Main Area, Avon Gorge, Bristol
The Arête 120ft VD (-,-,4a) lead, second: BS
Original Route 110ft D (-) lead, second: BS
Darkness descended on us as I left Lunchtime Ledge.

19th August 1994 Main Area, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Sinister 150ft HS (4a,4b) alt lead: FW
Petros 90ft VS (4c) lead, second: FW

20th August 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Syph 80ft S (-) lead, second: BOC
Nightmare 160ft S (4a,-) lead, second: BOC
Idleburger Buttress 80ft VD (-) lead, second: BOC

21st August 1994 Main Area, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Dawn Walk 210ft S (4a,-,-) lead, second: WW
Direct Route 90ft S (4a) lead, second: WW

22nd August 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Pronk [pitches 5-8] 410ft VS (4a,4b,4a,4c) alt lead: FW
We started up a variant of Morpheus to reach the fourth stance of Pronk. We exited up the left arête of Rotten Row at dusk to top out in the dark, but the ice cream van had already gone.

27th August 1994 Secteur de la Fissure, Ailefroide, France
Derma Spray [pitch 1] 40m 4+ flash
La Sandale 15m 3 solo

28th August 1994 Secteur de la Fissure, Ailefroide, France
Le Benet Vole 25m 4+ flash
Crac, Crac 25m 4 flash
Go On 20m 4 flash
Zython 22m 3+ flash

30th August 1994 Ailefroide, France
La Fissure [pitches 1 & 2] 200ft 4+ alt lead: MS
I was leading out of the first grotto when a thunderstorm started. We waited for the rain to ease off and abseiled off.

30th August 1994 Secteur de la Fissure, Ailefroide, France
Le Toboggan 60m 5,4+ alt lead: MS, second: WW
Evry 50m 5+,5 alt lead: MS

31st August 1994 Secteur de la Tête de la Draye, Ailefroide, France
[25] 25m 4+ flash

31st August 1994 St. Égrève, Grenoble, France
Ballet Bross 25m 5+/6a flash
Oncle Bins 25m 5 flash

1st September 1994 Lans-en-Vecors, Grenoble, France
Nicolas 55m 3 flash
Bergerac [var] 25m 5? flash

2nd September 1994 Mont Aguille, Vercors, France
Voie Normale [not completed] 400ft 2/3 alt lead: MS
By the time we reached La Vierge it was raining heavily; we abseiled back to the col.

3rd September 1994 Le Cirque, Gorges Du Crossey, Grenoble, France
Les Temps Modern 12m 5 flash
Le Nain Fomaine 12m 5 flash
Beau Tas 12m 5+ flash
Sainte Acete 12m 4+/5 flash
Djin Toniques 12m 4+ flash
Pas La Peche 12m 6a flash
Pale Appache 12m 4 flash
Surbacabra 12m 6a 2 falls
Cruel Dilemme 12m 4+ flash

3rd September 1994 St. Égrève, Grenoble, France
Eperon Des Gosses Mythiques 150m 5,5,4 alt lead: MS

18th September 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Pronk [first ascent] 835ft VS (4c) [10] alt lead: MB, FW
The route took eight hours to complete. Sadly the second half did not live up to the first.

25th September 1994 South East Crag, Glen Clova, Scotland
Parapet Route Direct Start 12m HS lead, second: DR
Flake Route 40m S lead, second: DR
Sam's Start 14m S lead, second: DR
Parapet Route 45m MVS (4b) lead, second: DR
Central Crack 45m HS lead, second: DR

26th September 1994 Upper North West Crag, Glen Clova, Scotland
Alder 40m MVS (4b,4b) lead, second: NC, DR

27th September 1994 North Peak, The Cobbler, Scotland
Right Angled Gully, Direct Finish 36m S lead, second: DG, DR, NC

8th October 1994 Main Area, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Central Rib 240ft VS (4b,4a,4c) lead, second: WW
Piton Route 200ft VS (4c,4a,4b) lead, second: WW

9th October 1994 Wintour's Leap, Wye Valley
Swallow's Nest 90ft VS (4b) lead, second: FW
Freedom 100ft VS (4b,4c) var lead: FW
Central Route/Bacchanalian 340ft VS (4b,4b,4b,4a,4b) var lead: FW

23rd October 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Morpheus 240ft VD (4a) solo
Sleepwalk 210ft S (4a) solo
Nightmare 160ft S (4a) solo

6th November 1994 Avon Gorge, Bristol
Sea Walls: Idleburger Buttress 80ft VD (-) solo
Main Area: The Arête/Original Route 230ft VD (4a) solo

3rd December 1994 Main Area, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Piton Route 200ft VS (4c,4a,4b) lead, second: SL, RL

4th December 1994 Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol
Sleepwalk 210ft S (4a,-,4a) lead, second: DR

Total Number of Routes  215
Total Length (m) 8,834
Total Length (ft) 28,967

The Partners


Partner Name # Routes Total Length
1. FW  Fred Willerup 62 3,202 m 10,500 ft
2. MB  Mark Bailey 37 1,763 m 5,780 ft
3. WW  Will Wray 29 1,488 m 4,880 ft
4. DR  Dave Randell 18 952 m 3,122 ft
5. BOC  Brid O'Conaill 14 612 m 2,007 ft
6. MS  Mark Syrett 6 543 m 1,782 ft
7. SL  Simon Love 11 454 m 1,490 ft
8. SL2  Steve Loughran 10 417 m 1,368 ft
9. RL  Ruth Love 10 362 m 1,190 ft
10. NC  Nick Cassin 4 234 m 769 ft
11. DG  Dave Gee 8 168 m 552 ft
12. BS  Bina Shah 2 70 m 230 ft
13. LS  Liz Stanley 2 67 m 220 ft
14. AH  Adrian Horrell 2 48 m 160 ft
15. HB  Howie Bailey 1 18 m 59 ft
16. CS  Chris Sly 1 11 m 36 ft


All information on this site is copyright © 1994-2016 Jim Randell